Guests have been drinking tea at the Fairmont Empress, the Grand Old Dame of Victoria, since the hotel opened in 1908. They continue to come, en masse, to this imposing, ivy-ensconced hotel for a grand, stately high tea experience, one with a definite flavor of yesterday’s grandeur.
The afternoon we’re escorted into the Tea Room, with its Corinthian columns and smartly attired waiters, a pianist plays soulful, easy-to-listen-to melodies on the ivories. You can’t help but feel important and dignified as you’re seated at an exquisitely laid table and served delicacies on Royal Doulton bone china. The aroma of fresh scones hangs in the air; everyone around you is formally dressed and there’s not even a cell phone in sight – since a sign respectfully requests that patrons turn their phones to silent so they don’t disturb fellow diners. A formal experience, tea at the Empress feels opulent, dramatic and wonderfully traditional.
Within minutes our waiter, Yousief, delivers a sumptuous array of sandwiches, savory pinwheels, scones and pastries, precipitated by a fresh berry starter with whipped cream. He’s been working the tea service for 32 years, he tells us, so he’s seen a great deal of sipping in his time.
“On a busy day we’ll seat up to 500 people for tea,” he says. When the cruise ships dock in Victoria’s harbor and the demand for high tea is truly high, the usual hours of 11:30 to 4:30 are waived and tea can occur anytime from 10 a.m. through 10 p.m. Over the course of a year the Empress will serve a whopping 500,000 cups of tea.
So it should come as no surprise that the Tea Room has a dedicated kitchen where the pastry chef starts baking at 3am. Guests choose from a selection of eight teas, including the “Empress” Blend, Jasmine Butterfly green tea, Borengajuli Assam, Kea Lani Orange Pineapple and Cascade Peppermint. They also have the option of enhancing their experience by ordering champagne cocktails, take-home chocolate shortbread cookies and Parisian-style macaroons.
If You Go: Tea is served daily at the Empress at a cost of $47.95-$59.95 per person, depending on the time of year. Kids can choose an adult tea for half price, or a Prince or Princess tea for $18. Reservations are recommended.
